Yesterday we saw the Potala Palace, which is magnificent. There are 999 different chambers. We didn't go in them all, of course, there was a pre-set course that led through some of the most interesting and important rooms, like shrines and tombs. The rooms are mostly lit by candles burning in yak butter wax (which smells like yak). Of course there is also plenty of incense smoke in most places. There were a number of Western tourists, very many Chinese tourists, and also a sizable amount of pilgrims who would prostrate themselves at important places. There is a very mystical feel to it all. It was definitely worth the 100 yuan entrance fee, and the tiring climb up the thousands of stairs leading to it.
Later that day we went to another temple in Lhasa called Ramoche. For a fee we went into the main prayer hall, absolutely filled to the brim with monks, and circumambulated (walked counter clock wise) the room, drawing the stares of many (we were the only tourists there). We didn't know it at the time, but they were all waiting for their venerable teacher to show up. We went outside--around the temple were hundreds of people also waiting for him to show up. So we waited too. Soon enough, officials starting pushing people back to allow room for an SUV to get near the temple. Army and police officials led the way, pushing people back. Then the SUV pulled in and a monk in one of those wild, yellow hats started blowing on one of those deep Tibetan horn instruments. As soon as the door opened, people swarmed the SUV. In the raucus I caught a glimpse of him. He was short and old, and surrounded by other monks and the officials, who escorted him into the temple.
Here's a picture of the SUV entering the temple compound:
Today has been a very full day. We took a city bus 20 minutes to a monastery called Sera, from which we hiked an hour through fields and small Tibetan villages to a small monastery called Pabonke. We never made it there because on the way we encountered a small monastery--actually a nunnery--and were waylaid. They were so nice and welcome, they actually invited us into their prayer hall to sit with them for their mid-day meal. So Pan-Pan and I sat in this room filled with Tibetan nuns, and ate with them. We didn't eat much though, just a little to be polite. The food was small balls of yak butter and meal, and we didn't like it very much. After we ate, they all started chanting, and we just sat back and tried to do a little meditating. All in all we were with them for at least an hour, and even managed to communicate a little with a very nice nun sitting across from us. They seem like very happy people, always smiling and joking around, even though their lives are very austere. I didn't take any photos because flashes aren't permitted in prayer halls, but I didn't manage to capture some poor quality video which I will share when I get back.
Here are some pictures of the Tibetan landscape on our way to the nunnery.
(That black-ish thing in the foreground is a yak, by the way. They smell.)
When we got back to Sera, we were just in time for the "monk debates", a huge tourist draw, where the monks sit in a big courtyard and have heated debates with each other. This was very interesting and we got some great photos. They are very emphatic when they argue, and they clap their hands at the others when they feel they've made a point. I didn't see anyone get angry or upset though. Everyone was either looking inquisitive, thoughtful, or joyful.
A picture of the monks debating:
Today we also settled our plans for our trip on the Friendship Highway, which starts tomorrow morning. We met our American comrades again and paid the travel agency and even got to see the jeep we'll be taking. This should be quite the adventure.
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