Chengdu, Tibet

The days since Lijiang have been a blur. We arrived at Chengdu very late and spent two nights at the Mix Hostel. Our first day in Chengdu we went to the Panda Breeding Center, a world renouned facility that studies, breeds and displays the giant panda and lesser red panda. I think this was Pan-Pan's favourite site so far. We went very early (6:30) to avoid the crowds and because we heard that the pandas are more active in the morning. We weren't disappointed at all, they were very active. We have some great pictures and videos that we will share when we get back. There are a couple good ones of panda cubs rough-housing on a wooden climbing structure. They seem like very friendly creatures! There was also a panda museum on the site. Here is a picture:

Later that day we went to what is said to be the first Taoist temple in China, where Lao-Tzu himself (writer of the Tao-te-Ching) is said to have lived part of his life. It was very interesting to me. Here's a picture:

The next day we left for Mt. Emei, but not before visiting the Leshan Buddha on the way. This is the biggest Buddha in the world. It was really incredible.

Mt. Emei is two hours outside of Chengdu. It's famous for its great scenic spots, the monastaries that dot the mountain, its incredible height, and the hordes of monkeys you encounter in several places. We took a bus to almost the top, where there was a small stretch of development including a couple hotels and a few restaurants, and the next morning, bright and early, we took a gondola to the very top. The monastery at the top is incredible. Here's a picture of the massive statue in front of the monastery:

We then climbed seven hours down the mountain. Going down is HARD, let me tell you. The last hour, I was hobbling--my ankle was hurting, but worse still, my right leg was just destroyed. Later that night I couldn't bend it at all and could barely walk. But overall it was an enjoyable experience. We saw some magnificent sites, some really magical looking temples, and they monkeys were just crazy! They would grab people's bags, pull out anything edible (juice boxes, bottles of water, raw eggs) and run into the trees to eat them. One of them attacked this older woman who was screaming "hozi!" ("monkey!") I tried to stop myself laughing but I couldn't, it was too funny. The official policy with the monkeys is don't feed them--the authorities have put them on a diet because they are getting fat and greedy from tourists' food. You have to be very careful with them and are advised to carry a big stick. There are some wardens who walk the paths but they are few and far between. It is a little scary when you're descending the trail by yourself, with at least an hour between you and the nearest little mountain concession stand or warden.

Here's a monkey after stealing a person's plastic bag. He then opens the bottle of water and drinks it (they are quite clever).

Then we left for Tibet. The flight was just great. For the second time we managed to get a seat in the third row, right behind first class, with no seats in front of us and so with lots of leg room.

Lhasa is such an interesting city. We've been here for two days now. On the one hand, it is so developed by the Han Chinese that much of it looks like an old Chinese city. In fact, there are more Han in Lhasa than Tibetans. But there is still a core of Tibetan culture, like the Potala palace (the old residence of the Dali Llama), the Jokhang temple, or the old neighborhoods bustling with circumabulating monks and with the smell of frying yak in the air. Speaking of yak, I had a yak burger, and it was pretty good--tasted like beef. At the Jokhang temple, Pan-Pan was yelled at by some woman at a concession stand for dressing inappropriately! She said something like "respect the temple when you're here, I hate that sort of thing." We were very confused and figured that she must have been referring to PP's skirt, which stopped around mid-calf--pretty long by most standards. Anyways, now we know to be extra careful. In India it will be even more intense, I'm sure.

Today we got our ticket vouchers for Potala Palace, and we can use them tomorrow (you have to get tickets a day in advance). Then we're going to the Sera Monastery to see the monk debates. We've already located two travelling companions to go with us on the Friendship Highway, which will take us to the Nepal border and visit most of the main sites along the way. We found them on the notice board at our hostel. We met them today--two American boys our age--and I think we'll have a good time with them. We'll get a jeep with a driver and a guide and spend five nights on the road, going from place to place, until we get to Nepal. I'm really looking forward to seeing the Samye monastery, oldest in Tibet, and the Everest base camp, which has amazing views of Everest. But even the Friendship Highway itself is supposed to be very scenic, though treacherous.

Here are a couple pictures, the first a view of the area around Johkbar temple, seen from the rooftop, and the second of Potala palace.

This will probably be the last post I'll be able to make until Nepal. I'm sure I'll arrive in Kathmandu with all sorts of stories and pictures--hopefully I'll be able to post a few!